Forward
This standard specifies, based on the production
features of pigskins, hides, sheep/goat skins, the requirements for Eco-Leather
Mark. They are as follows:
1. It sets the specifications for four restricted
substances possibly present in leathers, such as Hexavalent-chromium, Azo
Colourants, Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and Formaldehyde, on top of the general
specifications for physical testing and chemical analysis. The objective of
this is to bring in line the Chinese leather industry with the current
international practice.
2. The specifications and testing methods for general
physical testing and chemical analysis should comply with any relevant ones of
China National or Leather Industry Quality Standards for leather and leather
products. Sampling of leather should follow QB/T2706. The specifications and
testing methods for special chemicals analysis (mentioned above) should follow
current international standards. Sampling should be carried out in accordance
with provision5.2.1. of this ‘Standard’.
1 Scope
This standard prescribes on classification,
requirements, testing method, specifications, labeling, packaging, transportation,
and storage for all kinds of leather qualified Eco-Leather Mark.
This standard applies to leathers of different tannage
used for the production of all kinds of leathers such as furniture, garments,
sole and shoe lining, automotive and glove etc.
2 Normative
references
This specification incorporates by dated or undated
references, which are cited at the appropriate places in the text and the
publications are listed hereafter. For dated references, subsequent amendments
to or revisions of any of these publications apply to this specification only
when incorporated in them by amendment or revision. For undated references the
latest edition of the publication referred to applies. New national or
industrial
standard of other kinds of leather released in
future will also be applicable to this specification if such kinds of leather are
involved in the scope of Eco-Leather Mark.
GB/T 4694 Packaging,
Marking, Transporting, and storing of Finished Leather
GB/T 16799 Furniture
Leather
QB/T 1872 Garment
Leather
QB/T 1873 Upper
Leather
QB/T 2001 Sole
Leather
QB/T 2680 Lining Leather
QB/T 2703 Automotive
Upholstery Leather
QB/T 2704 Glove Leather
ISO 17070 Leather-Chemical
tests-Determination of Pentachlorophenol in leather
ISO 17226 Leather-Chemical
tests-Determination of formaldehyde content in leather
ISO 17234 Leather-Chemical
tests-Determination of certain azo colourants in dyed leather
ISO 17075 Photometric
Determination of chromium (VI) using 1, 5 - Diphenylcarbazide
3
Classification of leather
Classification of leather should be in accordance to relevant
requirements in China National or Leather Industrial standards such as GB/T16799,
QB/T1872, QB/T1873, QB/T2001, QB/T2680, QB/T2703, QB/T2704, etc..
4 Requirements
4.1 General requirements for physical and chemical indexes
The general requirements for physical and chemical
indexes for leather qualified Eco-leather Mark should comply with that of National
or Leather Industrial standards such as GB/T16799, QB/T1872, QB/T1873,
QB/T2001, QB/T2680, QB/T2703, QB/T2704, etc..
4.2 Special chemicals
indexes
Special chemical indexes should comply with the limits
listed in Table 1.
5 Testing
methods
5.1 General physical and chemical indexes
The test for general physical and chemical indexes should
be carried out according to the standards of GB/T16799, QB/T1872, QB/T1873,
QB/T2001, QB/T2680, QB/T2703, QB/T2704, etc..
5.2 Special chemical indexes
5.2.1Sampling
Cuttings of finished leather should be taken from the
belly area no less than20cmx25cm2.
5.2.2Test method for PCP
This should be carried out under ISO 17070.
5.2.3Test method of formaldehyde
This should be carried out under ISO 17226.
5.2.4Test method of azo
colourants
This should be carried out under ISO 17234.
5.2.5Test method of hexavalent
chromium
This should be carried out under ISO 17075.
6 Specifications
6.1 General physical and chemical indexes
Group and batch sample tests for above should follow
specification and requirements stated in the China National or Leather
Industrial standards such as GB/T 16799, QB/T 1872 and QB/T 1873, etc..
6.2 Special chemical indexes
After being tested under provision 6.1, the leather
samples will further be analyzed for the four restricted chemicals, such as
PCP, Formaldehyde, Chromium VI and AZO dye’s, during which a mixture of the
same quantity of different leather samples are analyzed. The leathers will be
awarded Eco-Leather Mark when their test results are within the range of the
figures detailed in Table 1.
6.3 Routine inspection
6.3.1Following situations will
attract routine inspection
a) Significant change in the production or
process/formula;
b) Re-start of the production after a period of
non-performance;
<
c) Under the request of local supervised bodies;
d) Annual routine inspection.
6.3.2Quantity of samples
Three pieces of leather samples will be taken from
each batch of production.
6.3.3Verification
6.3.3.1 Verification of a
single piece of leather
Leather sample will be judged against the
specifications for fingerprint test, general physical and chemical testing of
China National and Industrial leather standards such as GB/T16799, QB/T1872, QB/T1873,
etc.. The samples will be subject to further testing for its special chemical
contents (the four restricted chemicals).
Should the leather fail any one of the items against
the requirement in the specifications of this standard (Table 1), but it passes
the test for general physical and chemical testing, the leather is to be
retested. If it fails for the second time, the leather will be deemed as a
failure.
6.3.3.2 Verification of batch
leathers
Leather samples will be judged against the
specifications of fingerprint test, general physical and chemical testing of
China National or Industrial leather standards, such as GB/T16799, QB/T1872, QB/T1873,
etc.. The samples will be subject to further testing for their special chemical
contents (such as the four restricted substances).
Should the leathers fail in any one of the items
against the requirement in the specifications of this standard (Table 1), but
they pass the test for general physical and chemical testing, the leathers are
to be retested with increased sample quantity of 6 pieces. If they fail for the
second time, the batch of leathers will be deemed as unqualified.
7 Packaging,
labeling, transportation and storage
Packaging, labeling, transportation and storage should
comply with national standards GB/T4694. In addition, Logo of Eco-Leather Mark
may be stamped on the right hand side,
on the flesh, of each piece of leather. It may also be stamped on
the package of the finished leathers.
Editor’s Note
As a member, China is striving to pursue its
obligation to the World Trade Organization (WTO).
China Leather Industry Association (CLIA), after years
of culmination, officially launched Eco-Leather Mark in 2002, with the
objective, to harness the general awareness of environmental protection, to
increase the competitiveness of Chinese leather products in the global market,
and at the same time, to raise standards and imposing self-discipline.
There are two official documents relating to this program:
one is Specified Standard on Eco-Leather
Mark (Referred to as Standard thereafter), the other is Detailed Regulations on Eco-Leather Mark (Referred to as ‘Regulations’
thereafter)
The official trademark of Genuine Leather Mark
(referred to as ‘GLM’ thereafter), registered at the State Administration for
Industry and Commerce in 1994 by CLIA, leather and fur as well as products
produced from them were included in the scope of this official trademark. However,
in the market, the GLM is used for products made by leather or fur, and
Eco-Leather Mark, which is originated from CLM and stressed on the four special chemical indexes including formaldehyde,
hexavalent chrome, pentachloraphenal (PCP) and azo colourants, is used
for finished leather.
The ‘Regulations’ was initially drafted in 1996 and
being studied and revised several times. In 1998, CLIA officially introduced
the concept of Eco-Leather during a ‘Seminar
on Environmental Protection for Tanners’ held by UNIDO in Beijing,
and praises by the UNIDO officials. In 2000, CLIA presented ‘Eco-Leather Mark’
at the International Environmental Protection Conference sponsored by UNIDO in
Morocco, and received overwhelming support by the participants. The ‘Regulations’
was officially submitted for verification to four sub-committee meetings of
CLIA held in Beijing in June 2002. During the Third Session of the Fourth
Annual Congress of CLIA held in Shanghai in September 2001, the ‘Regulations’
was officially announced to the leather industry.
In 2000, meanwhile, the editorial team of CLIA started
to draft ‘Standard’, and completed its first draft in October 2001. This was
then submitted for discussion and verification to the1st Seminar on China
Leather Technology in the 21st Century, during which many
professionals, and leather experts, from nine leather institutes, including
Universities and colleges, nationwide, offer valuable suggestions and
additional comments.
All participants uniformly endorsed the Standard as of
vital importance to China to achieve its ambition of becoming a leather
superpower, and at the same time to culture a brand new image of Chinese
leather products in the global market.
The draft Standard was eventually completed, thanks to
the support of many experts in leather industry. It was later sent to many organizations,
including sub-committees of CLIA, major tanneries, leather research institutes
and testing houses, for further proof reading and verification. The Standard
was finally submitted and approved by the National Tanners Summit in
June 2002.
Having adopted the current international testing
requirements for leather industry, the editorial team of Standards has, at the
same time, taken into account of the current situation of the Chinese tanning
industry in the production of hides, pig and sheep skins, the consumer
requirements, and its current domestic testing standards. The final provisions
of the Standards included not only the existing physical and chemical testing standards,
but also the limits on certain possible harmful substances existing in leather.
Following are the additional comments on provisions:
1. The Standard were first introduced in 2002 and
further verified and updated in2006
inorder to keep its latest form.
2. General physical testing standards are written in
accordance to the China national or industrial standards such as GB/T 16799,
QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, and QB/T 2001. QB/T 2680. QB/T 2703, QB/T 2704, etc.
3. Based on the natural structure of leathers and
manufacturing characteristics, the Standard has set specifications for the four
harmful substances such as Chromium VI, Azo Dyes, Formaldehyde and PCP. Being a
member of WTO, China has obligation to follow current international practice.
International Standards Organization (ISO) has published testing methods for
these four chemicals in recent years, such as ISO FDIS 17070, which is the
internationally recognized standard for testing PCP. However, the Standard
states that national recognized testing method is to be applied simultaneously
in China, to compliment the ISO FDSI17070 testing method, which occasionally
produces inconsistent testing results. For the testing of chromium VI, the
Standard allows the use of widely recognized test methods such as IUC 19, 1997,
as ISO DIS 17075 is still not been officially recognized. Once it is approved
by the IUC, it will be adopted by the Standard immediately. The testing of Azo
Dyes and Formaldehyde will follow both ISO testing methods ISO TS17226 and ISO
TS17234.
4. The specifications for the four restricted
substance Chromium VI, Azo Dyes, Formaldehyde and PCP were set as the result of
years of work by CLIA, which has consulted many of the world’s leading test
houses such as BLC Leather Technology Centre in the United Kingdom. At the same
time, CLIA initiated a campaign to establish a picture of current Chinese leather
industry, through the nationwide sample collection and testing (62 leather
samples from 43 major tanneries in China were collected and tested). All this
was aimed to deliver Standard meeting the requirements of leather buyers
worldwide.
5. The testing methods in the ‘Standard’ are the most
updated, and comply with current international practiced.
During the writing of the Standard, the editorial team
of CLIA has received wide support from many organizations. CLIA, hereby, would
like to thank the following organizations for their contribution and support
towards the completion of the Standard:
National Leather Standardization Technical Committee
Tanners’ Committee of CLIA
Science and Technology Commission of CLIA
China Leather and footwear Industry Research Institute
Sichuan University
Shaanxi University of Science and Technology
Shandong Light Industry Institute
State Leather Quality Supervision and Testing Center
National Leather Product Quality Supervision and
testing Center
ITS Shanghai
UNIDO
BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltd.
Leather Institute Germany (LGR)
As well as many leather experts from tanneries and
leather goods manufacturers in China
China Leather Industry Association
Editorial team of Specified
Standard on Eco-Leather Mark
October 2011