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 Specified Standard on Eco-Leather Mark

Specified Standard on Eco-Leather Mark

2025-01-10

Source:CLIA

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Forward

This standard specifies, based on the production features of pigskins, hides, sheep/goat skins, the requirements for Eco-Leather Mark. They are as follows:

1. It sets the specifications for four restricted substances possibly present in leathers, such as Hexavalent-chromium, Azo Colourants, Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and Formaldehyde, on top of the general specifications for physical testing and chemical analysis. The objective of this is to bring in line the Chinese leather industry with the current international practice.

2. The specifications and testing methods for general physical testing and chemical analysis should comply with any relevant ones of China National or Leather Industry Quality Standards for leather and leather products. Sampling of leather should follow QB/T2706. The specifications and testing methods for special chemicals analysis (mentioned above) should follow current international standards. Sampling should be carried out in accordance with provision5.2.1. of this ‘Standard’.

1 Scope

This standard prescribes on classification, requirements, testing method, specifications, labeling, packaging, transportation, and storage for all kinds of leather qualified Eco-Leather Mark.

This standard applies to leathers of different tannage used for the production of all kinds of leathers such as furniture, garments, sole and shoe lining, automotive and glove etc.

2 Normative references

This specification incorporates by dated or undated references, which are cited at the appropriate places in the text and the publications are listed hereafter. For dated references, subsequent amendments to or revisions of any of these publications apply to this specification only when incorporated in them by amendment or revision. For undated references the latest edition of the publication referred to applies. New national or industrial standard of other kinds of leather released in future will also be applicable to this specification if such kinds of leather are involved in the scope of Eco-Leather Mark.

GB/T 4694 Packaging, Marking, Transporting, and storing of Finished Leather

GB/T 16799 Furniture Leather

QB/T 1872 Garment Leather

QB/T 1873 Upper Leather

QB/T 2001 Sole Leather

QB/T 2680 Lining Leather

QB/T 2703 Automotive Upholstery Leather

QB/T 2704 Glove Leather

ISO 17070 Leather-Chemical tests-Determination of Pentachlorophenol in leather

ISO 17226 Leather-Chemical tests-Determination of formaldehyde content in leather

ISO 17234 Leather-Chemical tests-Determination of certain azo colourants in dyed leather

ISO 17075 Photometric Determination of chromium (VI) using 1, 5 - Diphenylcarbazide

3 Classification of leather

Classification of leather should be in accordance to relevant requirements in China National or Leather Industrial standards such as GB/T16799, QB/T1872, QB/T1873, QB/T2001, QB/T2680, QB/T2703, QB/T2704, etc..

4 Requirements

4.1 General requirements for physical and chemical indexes

The general requirements for physical and chemical indexes for leather qualified Eco-leather Mark should comply with that of National or Leather Industrial standards such as GB/T16799, QB/T1872, QB/T1873, QB/T2001, QB/T2680, QB/T2703, QB/T2704, etc..

4.2 Special chemicals indexes

Special chemical indexes should comply with the limits listed in Table 1.


5 Testing methods

5.1 General physical and chemical indexes

The test for general physical and chemical indexes should be carried out according to the standards of GB/T16799, QB/T1872, QB/T1873, QB/T2001, QB/T2680, QB/T2703, QB/T2704, etc..

5.2 Special chemical indexes

5.2.1Sampling

Cuttings of finished leather should be taken from the belly area no less than20cmx25cm2.

5.2.2Test method for PCP

This should be carried out under ISO 17070.

5.2.3Test method of formaldehyde

This should be carried out under ISO 17226.

5.2.4Test method of azo colourants

This should be carried out under ISO 17234.

5.2.5Test method of hexavalent chromium

This should be carried out under ISO 17075.

6 Specifications

6.1 General physical and chemical indexes

Group and batch sample tests for above should follow specification and requirements stated in the China National or Leather Industrial standards such as GB/T 16799, QB/T 1872 and QB/T 1873, etc..

6.2 Special chemical indexes

After being tested under provision 6.1, the leather samples will further be analyzed for the four restricted chemicals, such as PCP, Formaldehyde, Chromium VI and AZO dye’s, during which a mixture of the same quantity of different leather samples are analyzed. The leathers will be awarded Eco-Leather Mark when their test results are within the range of the figures detailed in Table 1.

6.3 Routine inspection

6.3.1Following situations will attract routine inspection

a) Significant change in the production or process/formula;

b) Re-start of the production after a period of non-performance; <

c) Under the request of local supervised bodies;

d) Annual routine inspection.

6.3.2Quantity of samples

Three pieces of leather samples will be taken from each batch of production.

6.3.3Verification

6.3.3.1 Verification of a single piece of leather

Leather sample will be judged against the specifications for fingerprint test, general physical and chemical testing of China National and Industrial leather standards such as GB/T16799, QB/T1872, QB/T1873, etc.. The samples will be subject to further testing for its special chemical contents (the four restricted chemicals).

Should the leather fail any one of the items against the requirement in the specifications of this standard (Table 1), but it passes the test for general physical and chemical testing, the leather is to be retested. If it fails for the second time, the leather will be deemed as a failure.

6.3.3.2 Verification of batch leathers

Leather samples will be judged against the specifications of fingerprint test, general physical and chemical testing of China National or Industrial leather standards, such as GB/T16799, QB/T1872, QB/T1873, etc.. The samples will be subject to further testing for their special chemical contents (such as the four restricted substances).

Should the leathers fail in any one of the items against the requirement in the specifications of this standard (Table 1), but they pass the test for general physical and chemical testing, the leathers are to be retested with increased sample quantity of 6 pieces. If they fail for the second time, the batch of leathers will be deemed as unqualified.

7 Packaging, labeling, transportation and storage

Packaging, labeling, transportation and storage should comply with national standards GB/T4694. In addition, Logo of Eco-Leather Mark may be stamped on the right hand side, on the flesh, of each piece of leather. It may also be stamped on the package of the finished leathers.


Editor’s Note

As a member, China is striving to pursue its obligation to the World Trade Organization (WTO).

China Leather Industry Association (CLIA), after years of culmination, officially launched Eco-Leather Mark in 2002, with the objective, to harness the general awareness of environmental protection, to increase the competitiveness of Chinese leather products in the global market, and at the same time, to raise standards and imposing self-discipline.

There are two official documents relating to this program: one is Specified Standard on Eco-Leather Mark (Referred to as Standard thereafter), the other is Detailed Regulations on Eco-Leather Mark (Referred to as ‘Regulations’ thereafter)

The official trademark of Genuine Leather Mark (referred to as ‘GLM’ thereafter), registered at the State Administration for Industry and Commerce in 1994 by CLIA, leather and fur as well as products produced from them were included in the scope of this official trademark. However, in the market, the GLM is used for products made by leather or fur, and Eco-Leather Mark, which is originated from CLM and stressed on the four special chemical indexes including formaldehyde, hexavalent chrome, pentachloraphenal (PCP) and azo colourants, is used for finished leather.

The ‘Regulations’ was initially drafted in 1996 and being studied and revised several times. In 1998, CLIA officially introduced the concept of Eco-Leather during a ‘Seminar on Environmental Protection for Tanners’ held by UNIDO in Beijing, and praises by the UNIDO officials. In 2000, CLIA presented ‘Eco-Leather Mark’ at the International Environmental Protection Conference sponsored by UNIDO in Morocco, and received overwhelming support by the participants. The ‘Regulations’ was officially submitted for verification to four sub-committee meetings of CLIA held in Beijing in June 2002. During the Third Session of the Fourth Annual Congress of CLIA held in Shanghai in September 2001, the ‘Regulations’ was officially announced to the leather industry.

In 2000, meanwhile, the editorial team of CLIA started to draft ‘Standard’, and completed its first draft in October 2001. This was then submitted for discussion and verification to the1st Seminar on China Leather Technology in the 21st Century, during which many professionals, and leather experts, from nine leather institutes, including Universities and colleges, nationwide, offer valuable suggestions and additional comments.

All participants uniformly endorsed the Standard as of vital importance to China to achieve its ambition of becoming a leather superpower, and at the same time to culture a brand new image of Chinese leather products in the global market.

The draft Standard was eventually completed, thanks to the support of many experts in leather industry. It was later sent to many organizations, including sub-committees of CLIA, major tanneries, leather research institutes and testing houses, for further proof reading and verification. The Standard was finally submitted and approved by the National Tanners Summit in June 2002.

Having adopted the current international testing requirements for leather industry, the editorial team of Standards has, at the same time, taken into account of the current situation of the Chinese tanning industry in the production of hides, pig and sheep skins, the consumer requirements, and its current domestic testing standards. The final provisions of the Standards included not only the existing physical and chemical testing standards, but also the limits on certain possible harmful substances existing in leather.

Following are the additional comments on provisions:

1. The Standard were first introduced in 2002 and further verified and updated in2006 inorder to keep its latest form.

2. General physical testing standards are written in accordance to the China national or industrial standards such as GB/T 16799, QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, and QB/T 2001. QB/T 2680. QB/T 2703, QB/T 2704, etc.

3. Based on the natural structure of leathers and manufacturing characteristics, the Standard has set specifications for the four harmful substances such as Chromium VI, Azo Dyes, Formaldehyde and PCP. Being a member of WTO, China has obligation to follow current international practice. International Standards Organization (ISO) has published testing methods for these four chemicals in recent years, such as ISO FDIS 17070, which is the internationally recognized standard for testing PCP. However, the Standard states that national recognized testing method is to be applied simultaneously in China, to compliment the ISO FDSI17070 testing method, which occasionally produces inconsistent testing results. For the testing of chromium VI, the Standard allows the use of widely recognized test methods such as IUC 19, 1997, as ISO DIS 17075 is still not been officially recognized. Once it is approved by the IUC, it will be adopted by the Standard immediately. The testing of Azo Dyes and Formaldehyde will follow both ISO testing methods ISO TS17226 and ISO TS17234.

4. The specifications for the four restricted substance Chromium VI, Azo Dyes, Formaldehyde and PCP were set as the result of years of work by CLIA, which has consulted many of the world’s leading test houses such as BLC Leather Technology Centre in the United Kingdom. At the same time, CLIA initiated a campaign to establish a picture of current Chinese leather industry, through the nationwide sample collection and testing (62 leather samples from 43 major tanneries in China were collected and tested). All this was aimed to deliver Standard meeting the requirements of leather buyers worldwide.

5. The testing methods in the ‘Standard’ are the most updated, and comply with current international practiced.

During the writing of the Standard, the editorial team of CLIA has received wide support from many organizations. CLIA, hereby, would like to thank the following organizations for their contribution and support towards the completion of the Standard:

National Leather Standardization Technical Committee

Tanners’ Committee of CLIA

Science and Technology Commission of CLIA

China Leather and footwear Industry Research Institute

Sichuan University

Shaanxi University of Science and Technology

Shandong Light Industry Institute

State Leather Quality Supervision and Testing Center

National Leather Product Quality Supervision and testing Center

ITS Shanghai

UNIDO

BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltd.

Leather Institute Germany (LGR)

As well as many leather experts from tanneries and leather goods manufacturers in China

China Leather Industry Association

Editorial team of Specified Standard on Eco-Leather Mark

October 2011

责任编辑人:樊永红

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